Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Part 1

Object Description

For this assignment I have chosen the kilt as my object of study, as it has managed to cross various temporal, spatial, and diasporic boundaries in its existence as a cultural item. There must be a differentiation made between the original design of the kilt and the modern variation. Known as the great kilt (16th cent.), it was a full body garment consisting of the “skirt” portion as well as fabric which was draped over the torso1. The original was much larger than the more modern kilt, or “walking kilt” (17th-18th cent.). The focus will be mainly on the more modern interpretation of the kilt, but the historical change will be discussed.
The kilt is a knee length, or a bit longer, article of clothing which is made up of a surprisingly large amount of fabric. While the length does depend on the proportions of the wearer, generally an average kilt is made up of approximately 4-8 yards of fabric2. This amount of fabric means that a kilt can be deceptively heavy, but that also depends on the weight of fabric used for its construction. As with the length of fabric needed, the weight of the fabric can vary widely as well depending on the wearer's preference. Normally there are three fabric weight categories which kilts can be made from: light weight at 10-11.5 oz; medium at 13 oz; heavy at 16 oz3. Generally made of wool, the kilt fabric also varies by design, or tartan. The choice of tartan was originally dictated by an individuals clan or family allegiance, but can also be based on their hometown or region. As such, tartans vary widely across regional lines, with no one pattern being accepted as culturally definitive. Compounding this is the fact that the kilt was also picked up by the Irish and Welsh, adding more variation to the tartan patterns.
While kilts are traditionally made by one individual kilt-maker, machine made kilts have become more popular in recent times, as such the price of a kilt can vary widely, but generally falls within the several hundreds of dollars range for a well made one. As previously discussed, the kilt is made up of a deceptively large amount of fabric, and requires a lengthy processing period for manufacturing. The kilt consists of several separate pieces which are later stitched together: inside apron, outside apron, pleated midsection, fringe, inside lining, and finally buckles and leather straps4.
1Eric Hobsbawm and Terence Ranger, The Invention of Tradition (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1983).
2Linda Clifford Scottish & Irish Merchant, “Kilts,” http://www.lindaclifford.com/Kilts.html/
3Linda , Kilts.
4Ibid.